Orazio D'Elia, the renowned Italian chef, is making waves in the Sydney food scene with his latest venture, Trattoria Da Orazio. This new restaurant, opening at Rushcutters Bay, marks a departure from his acclaimed pizza and porchetta destination, Da Orazio in Bondi. While his previous establishment is a Good Food Guide-hatted pizzeria, D'Elia's new trattoria showcases his versatility and culinary prowess beyond pizza.
In an interview, D'Elia expressed his desire to showcase his skills as a chef, emphasizing that trattorias in Italy typically do not serve pizza. His menu at Trattoria Da Orazio reflects this, featuring a range of Italian dishes that highlight his regional cooking expertise. One notable example is the passata in his spaghetto napoletano, where D'Elia sourced tomatoes from the Southern Highlands, resulting in a flavorful and authentic dish.
The Rushcutters Bay location holds personal significance for D'Elia, as it was where he first made a name for himself as a chef 14 years ago. He worked tirelessly at Popolo, now known as Marta, and this experience shaped his culinary identity. Collaborating with local designer Adrian Condina, the restaurant's interior boasts rich, green patterned floor tiles, embroidered Italian linen curtains, and a charcoal grill. A vintage Italian fishing boat adds a unique touch, showcasing daily seafood specials.
The menu offers a variety of intriguing dishes, such as Tortelli Milanese, a pasta dish filled with osso bucco and served with saffron-infused cream. D'Elia's attention to detail is evident in his use of local smallgoods producers for pizza toppings, including a bespoke mortadella infused with 'nduja. However, he laments the rising cost of rabbit, which prevented the return of Popolo's beloved rabbit ragu.
Despite the influx of Italian restaurants in Sydney, including Riva at Rose Bay, Vito's in the city, and a reboot of Ursula's in Paddington, D'Elia remains confident in the enduring appeal of Italian cuisine. He believes that its simplicity, cleanliness, and versatility make it a beloved choice for food enthusiasts. With Trattoria Da Orazio, D'Elia continues to push the boundaries of Italian cooking, offering a unique dining experience that showcases his passion and expertise.
